When Copenhagen’s meat‑loving restaurateurs decided to bring their concept to London, they chose not to open in Mayfair or the City’s glass canyons but in Soho. KöD, which simply means “meat” in Danish, first settled in the Square Mile in 2023. Earlier this year, the group decided to take its hygge‑infused steakhouse south of Oxford Street, opening a second branch at 2 St Anne’s Court. The narrow lane off Dean Street has seen more than a few ambitious restaurants come and go over the past decade. Yet, KöD’s owners clearly believe its blend of casual Northern European calm and unapologetic carnivory can carve out an audience here.
From the moment you step through the door, you see how carefully they have balanced formality and fun. The interior design — clean lines, muted lighting, and warm materials — manages to feel sleek without ever being stiff. Blond wood panels and leather banquettes evoke Scandi simplicity; flickering candles and neon slogans add just enough Soho swagger. Sibling restaurants from Copenhagen to Aarhus are renowned for “hygge‑in‑beef‑form”, and the Soho dining room follows suit, offering a cosy refuge from the bustle of the West End.
KöD specialises in premium steaks cooked over the grill and served with an assortment of sauces and sides. Cuts range from richly marbled rib‑eye and sirloin to leaner filet mignon, and there’s a sharing platter – the KöD Experience – comprising Japanese A4 wagyu, Uruguayan fillet and a British sirloin, carved in the kitchen and designed for two. Yet this is not a one‑note meat palace. The menu also caters for pescetarians and vegetarians, with dishes such as salmon smørrebrød and a celeriac schnitzel.
We began with a pair of tacos filled with slow‑braised tri‑tip beef. These homemade shells crackled agreeably under the weight of tender meat, a sweet mango chutney and a silky avocado crema; fresh coriander added brightness. A plate of garlic‑parsley prawns arrived swimming in a herby butter, with a Tabasco and horseradish dip providing heat and horseradish‑spiked freshness. Both starters were thoughtfully seasoned and hinted at the kitchen’s Scandinavian touches without straying into gimmickry.
For our mains, we opted for the Japanese A4 wagyu and a beautifully marbled rib‑eye, both cooked to a perfect medium‑rare and accompanied by KöD’s pepper sauce and béarnaise.
For sides, we ordered truffle fries, as you do, and were not disappointed: chips fried to bronze perfection were perfumed with truffle oil and showered with Parmesan. To finish, we shared a fried apple pie, a generous dome of caramelised fruit encased in a crisp pastry crust. A scoop of vanilla ice cream provided a welcome contrast. It’s also worth noting that KöD offers a Sunday roast featuring tri‑tip beef and chicken wings, with unlimited sides and Madagascan pepper sauce, and a bottomless brunch with DJs at the weekend.
The ambience is one of KöD Soho’s strengths. The restaurant melds the energy of Soho with the minimalism of Danish design. On the night we dined, the room was buzzing — a mix of couples, groups of friends and a few pre‑theatre diners taking advantage of the location between Oxford Street and Shaftesbury Avenue. Despite the crowd, the space never felt cramped, thanks to well‑spaced tables and a cleverly zoned layout. Lighting is low but warm, and a soundtrack of unobtrusive house music adds to the cosy vibe.
Our waiter was attentive and friendly, but the kitchen struggled with pacing. Drinks and starters arrived promptly, but mains took longer than expected. However, given that Soho is still feeling the pinch of post‑pandemic staffing shortages, one can forgive a little delay. The waiting staff are informative without being intrusive, and they make sure to check that we enjoyed each dish.
KöD brings a distinctly Scandinavian twist to London’s steakhouse scene. If you are expecting dark wood panelling and clubby masculinity, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the chic design and inclusive menu. The restaurant’s focus on top‑quality steaks cooked with precision and served with classic sides is clear. Yet, the inclusion of inventive starters and a diverse selection of wines and cocktails keeps the experience enjoyable. On a busy night, the kitchen can be slightly sluggish, but the warmth of the staff and the quality of the food make up for the wait.
Is KöD Soho set to become a fixture in the neighbourhood? Based on our experience, whether you're a steak aficionado or simply looking for a lively dinner with friends, this Copenhagen import is well worth a visit.
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 5–11 pm; Sat 12–11 pm; Sun 12–11 pm
Website: restaurantkod.co.uk
