There's a stretch of Kensington High Street that has, over the past two years, quietly become one of London's most interesting dining corridors. Como Garden, occupying a striking corner site with wraparound windows and a terrace that catches the afternoon sun, is perhaps its finest addition.
The concept is straightforward: northern Italian cooking inspired by the restaurants around Lake Como, served in interiors that evoke the region's particular blend of elegance and warmth. On paper, this could be another paint-by-numbers Italian. In execution, it's considerably more than that.
The dining room is beautiful. High ceilings, sage-green banquettes, and botanical prints create a space that feels both contemporary and timeless. Natural light floods through the tall windows, and the open kitchen adds energy without noise. On a spring evening, the terrace — sheltered, heated, and landscaped with olive trees — is one of Kensington's best outdoor dining spots.
We began with burrata, served with slow-roasted cherry tomatoes and a basil oil that tasted genuinely of basil rather than generic "herb." The quality of the cheese — shipped from Puglia twice weekly, we're told — was evident in its cream-filled centre. A carpaccio of beef, sliced to near-transparency and dressed with truffle oil, rocket, and shaved Parmigiano, was equally precise.
Pasta is made in-house, and it shows. A tagliolini al tartufo — simple egg pasta with black truffle — demonstrated the kitchen's confidence: no unnecessary additions, just excellent ingredients prepared with care. The texture of the pasta — silky, with a slight bite — was spot-on. A wild mushroom risotto was equally accomplished: properly stirred, with a wave-like consistency that Italians call all'onda.
For mains, a branzino al forno arrived whole, deboned at the table with theatrical precision. The fish was pristine — clearly fresh, simply seasoned, and cooked exactly. A veal Milanese, the traditional Lombardian dish, came with a golden, shattering crust and a tangle of rocket and cherry tomatoes. It's a dish that rewards good ingredients and careful execution, and Como Garden delivers on both counts.
Desserts maintained the standard. A tiramisu — the true test of any Italian restaurant — was light, properly boozy, and made with excellent mascarpone. A panna cotta with seasonal berries was perfectly set: trembling, not rubbery.
The wine list is thoughtfully Italian, with good representation from Piedmont, Tuscany, and the Veneto, plus several interesting choices from Alto Adige and Friuli. Markups are reasonable by Kensington standards, with several good bottles under £40. The sommelier (refreshingly, not pushy) recommended a Lugana from the shores of Lake Garda that paired beautifully with the fish.
Service was warm, knowledgeable, and well-paced. Our waiter knew the menu in detail and made recommendations with genuine enthusiasm rather than recitation. The kitchen pacing was good — no rushed starters or interminable waits between courses.
Is Como Garden perfect? The acoustics can be challenging when the room is full (a common London complaint), and the dessert menu could be more adventurous. But these are minor criticisms of a restaurant that gets the fundamentals — ingredients, technique, atmosphere, service — consistently right.
In a city overflowing with Italian restaurants of varying quality, Como Garden stands out by doing the simple things exceptionally well. It's the kind of neighbourhood restaurant that every neighbourhood deserves but few possess.
Opening hours: Mon–Sat 12–3 pm, 6–11 pm; Sun 12–10 pm
Website: comogarden.co.uk
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